Grab your pitchforks and torches, Thom Browne has risen from the dearth of creativity; just in time for Christmas.
There are some designers, such as say Calvin Klein, whose aim is to provide the world with universal bespoke clothing, others.... well, it borders insanity. Call the village people and tell em' to bring their pitch forks and torches, fashion's very own Frankenstein-grade monster has arrived; meet Thom Browne's Fall/Winter 2012 collection.
Logic and proportion are tipped as Browne's collection borders a creation straight from a Tim Burton film. The astute display features a confluence of medieval fairy-tales and American high schools to create the most memorable factor of the the collection, none other than shoulder pads. The sporty aesthetic is dragged into this world in the form of formal blazers, creating an almost awkward, oafish look. Masculinity oozes out of the his mainline looks, making it a bit of an oxymoron, considering it is generally the more 'feminine' of looks that the male demographic would deem unwearable. Browne matches many of these outfits with skirts - a very adventurous act - yet still manages to evoke masculinity. These punk quarterbacks form a sinister tableau of dominance in their flip-flipped proportions The top heavy look is complimented with bulbous padding on arms and trousers and bizarre elongated bottoms.
Delving further into the void of Browne's mind, military is another key theme of his looks. Knee-high chunky boots and waves of stud embellishments - two key A/W trends - are chiefly used and are coupled with the occasional strip of shearling. These accents come together to really accentuate the inhuman qualities of the collection. However, what is the most macabre of the gathering is the predominate use of masks. Eerily resembling hockey or fencing masks, these are definitely not designed for everyday wear, in lieu, they parallel a form of art (that ultimately fashion is) as they themselves are disfigured with cone studs. Further emanating the monstrous, almost behemoth look of the clothing but adds a slab of bondage. The oeuvre, of which comes in the form of darkened shadows on the eyes, makes the models appear like supernatural beings straight out of the labs of Dr. Frankenstein. This infamous doctor's own works were plunged into ominous lights that seemingly applies to Browne's own products too.
In Browne's tale, there are two sides. One dons brutish attire while the other look like the were born in the triple x section in the back of a movie store. Both are united with a playful touch of Christmas spirit. Browne toys with aesthetic contradictions as after deflating the jocks' silhouettes, their suits can in fact easily decorate a living room fireplace with snowflakes made of red beading on white wool. But the question that is oh so apparent, is what side to this tale will you be on, the jocks or the punks?
copyright © josh milton 2017