Gathering amongst the rain-drenched cobblestone streets of England was a mélange of only the most dernier cri of ladies and gentleman. iPads and iPhones in hand, Instagram already open, the filters pre-chosen (Brannan of course) the show began. Both the popularity but also importance of menswear within the global fashion world has accelerated dramatically in recent years. Menswear is not merely the entrée for womenswear the week after. It's locomoted to the forefront of the fashion world as finally, Britain's motley history of style is celebrated for all that it is: coats, layers and knitwear. It's Britain after all..
For her fourth consecutive season at LCM, Lou Dalton spilled a somber wave of brown all over the grey runway floor. Clearly a partisan of all things farmland, Lou chose to interpret next years A/W as being one where the stylish men of the country will be wearing the work clothes straight from the farms. Cords and cotton outerwear projected a working class look, with denim jackets and bleached jeans all being a refreshing addition to the usual tweedy fabrics of winter. Heavy duty army boots added a military flair to the outfits, forming a fervid contrast to the laborious of the fair isle jumpers.
Topman Design saw a radiant deluge of accents consumed by a flurry of black PVC. Standing in stark contrast to their "Techno Cowboy" collection last year, the models were caught in a storm, dressed in sharply cut duffle and pea coats, even dramatically enshrouding ponchos. Embracing a more darker voice to the traditionally jauntily-toned nautical motif. Playful knitwear trickled down, the droplets of bright orange and blue broke the inky inclemants. The mix of cropped and lenghty pieces blustered the traditional silhouette. Honestly, the models should've brought an umbrella.
Christian Bailey delivered a flirtatious display of British heritage and Eaternly designs. Lightweight camel trench coats took to the helm of the languid relaxed silhouettes. Thrown over white mesh tanks, the collection was inspired by self discovery, imbuing the traditionally British garments with landmark designs. A mustard brocade jacket was paired with a rather unlikely accessory; a tapestry blanket scarf in a geometric print slung over the shoulders. Coupled with woven jacquard bags, it just goes to show that Burberry Prorsum never fails to impress.
Drowning in the ballooning fabrics were the models of E. Tautz. Layers upon layers of laden oversized coats complimented the modernised Savile Row tailoring. Perpendicular patterns of subdued an restrained palettes were featured in billowing overcoats. A bold statement, the duller colours were replaced with gleaming metallics of duty golds and ruby reds. Sporadically embroidered blazers urbanised the orthodoxy of the male suit, leaving the rebellion of the motorcycle styled overcoats to accentuate the aloof spirit the collection champions.
Closing the three day event was A Sauvage. It was an urbanised display seemingly derived from the thrifty alleyways of East London, with minimally cut varsity jackets emblazoned in muted, speckled blocks Vibrant tartan echoed the shouts of Punks from the 70s, now streamlined into the teenies with sleeveless motorcycle and double breasted jackets. Alongside the burnished metals, zesty fulminations of velvet were playfully thrown into the mix.
And it's over! Though I'm sad that I didn't have the opportunity to see an event this year, nevertheless, the past three days have been simply spectacular. They have demonstrated that London is the center of style, the beacon of trends and the mecca of all things different.
copyright © josh milton 2017