It's my second season of London Fashion Week. Second, wow, it's still all so surreal. Unimaginable, even. Rustling across the palatial, dusky streets of the Strand, a Starbucks is brimming with au courant folk from nations far and wide, their metallic bags and shows scattering the flashes of the cameras that follow suit. The place heaves with the electronic rings of iPhones as the scattered light shifts through the colander buildings, and I'm there, bopping up and down as I run to my show. Late as always!
This season, I attended on behalf of POP PR and was given the opportunity to watch a cornucopia of up and coming designers housed in the succulent sound surroundings of the Freemason's Hall.
During my time, I saw 5 shows at Fashion Scout, which included Marko Mitanovski, who I reviewed earlier last week. Each designer possessed their own unique aesthetic:
Jamie We: Huang:
Ominously titled 'Nymphomaniac', Taiwanese designer Jame We Huang chalked a dark, baleful aesthetic into her collection, intertwining an injection of foreboding intensity into the hall's atmosphere. Huang is known for her androgynous approach to tailoring, with the sun setting and the temperatures dropping marking a darkening of style. On the gleaning white catwalk, fringed, leathery figures loomed down,pearlescent fish-scale textured tops, high-wrist gloves and draping fringe being clouded in with a disturbed undertone of preppy silhouettes and jumpers. These youthful influences were twisted into blood reds and sullen blues, trickling down into patent, crepe platform-heeled brogues.
Delivering onto the courtyard an opulence that not even Joey Essex's teeth or Jessie J's jewelry could match in shine, Always a lover of theatrics (I mean, just take a gander at his last collection) and you'll know that when that first models enters into the glowing spotlight, Ashley Isham's glittering dress that she's bedecked in glimmering in the light, you know you're in for a show. Pom-poms! And a lot of them. Singaporean designer Isham took the conventionally serious art of Elizabethan masques and translated it into a contemporary playfulness. Dark jewel tones of ruby and dusty emeralds shaded the rich knitwear and lavishly wrapping coats of black, grey and navy. Headpieces, both diamante and veiled, caught the gaze of the cameras.
Debuting at a presentation in New York (I bet it was a hell of a town) San Fransisco based designer Mimi Tran brought with her luggage of contemporary New York, West-coast urban scenery and influences. A silky, glitter cocktail of embellished cocktail dresses and effervescent floor-length evening gowns imbuing together the age-old glossy glamour of Hollywood with European luxury, an undertone of French haughty haute couture undercutting the Atlantic waves. An inkly beauty of Paris 20s deco noir is imbued through delicate attention to details; beading, lace and lattice work sculpted around a trove of gold piping accents. The collection is a lavish palette of pure metal reds, blues and heavenly painted whites. Tran's American routes still underlay her work as you can tell.
C. J. YAO:
...and it was all but a dream. This is the inspiration footing the ephemeral base of Chinese designer C. J. Yao's collection. Her first show in London, the collection is a misty confluence of grandeur. Silk and jersey, two materials whose very lining juxtapose one another, are intertwined into a sports luxe stylisation of bold shapes and hues - blue, burgundies and olives -which involve the use of interlocking elements, as if Yao herself is coalescing the dream-like rapidity of the human condition with the earthy grounding of the world. Leather is draped onto the disjointed silhouettes, and asymmetry is utilised in a pragmatic approach to grasp together paneled structures.
This was my second sitting in the carousel that is London Fashion Week. Each of the créatif's envisaged their own unfolding of what the brisk winds of the colder months have to offer, and if anything, it will be one of the blue. As someone whose favourite colour happens to be blue, this more muted yet popping autumnal season palette is one that I will surely embrace.
What was your highlight form Fashion Scout's Autumn Winter 2015/2016 London Fashion Collection?
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