copyright © josh milton 2017
No sugar-coating in this collection. Dsquared2 goes monochrome for the Spring and Summer.
There is a group of materials that are simply the Cadillac of the modern man. This decade has seen the very infrastructure of what was seen as masculine overturned, it was only inevitable that leather would, part of this elitist group, be reinvented. Harmoniously in the hands of Dan and Dean Caten.
In the tale of rebellion that DSquared2 paints in front of us, black leather is the heroic lead. Given a urbanist edge aids in capitalising the apparent biker-chic style of the outfits shown. Accentuated by the models skin-tight leather trousers, the formality of many of the looks is broken via the intricacy of the accessories. All meant to be oblique yet still angles the viewers gaze towards the rebellious tenor. Such as those of the belts.
Versatility is enforced as many of the outfits showcase the bare basics of texture. Opening up a playground of contrastive aesthetics as these overused materials are set out of their comfort zones. Denim and linen acts as the ersatz for leather. With many white lycra and cotton jackets, shorts and even kilts worn to create a near sports luxe effect, further headlining disobedience.
Denim meets Leopard...
Though seldom used as centre points, the addition of animal print - mainly leopard - is welcomed and adds to the panache factor the pieces convey. Seen as collar supplements, these affix a rather humorous but also kaleidoscopic feel. Only increasing the sexual fetish undertones of the collection.
Necklace after necklace....
The minimalistic colour choice coupled with the limited textures on show showcases how Dan and Dean want the accessories to do the talking. Though the occasionally splat of pink is shown, the heaps of chains, necklaces and other metalware concatenates urbanism. Alongside the array of motorcycle hats on display.
The only other coherent colour palette comes in the form of Versace territory; the fabled black and gold. Chosen alongside religious neck-ware, it creates an eerie gothic theme, adding to the unconventional setup.
All of these link together to result in an oddity of a performance. The strict adherence to rebellion stiffens the use of several iconic aspects of fashion, ergo only greatening the raw unconventionality of the show. The run into the ground use of embellishment does seem repetitive, but I for one will be rushing to buy bulk packs of black necklaces, will you?